I will bear your comment in mind though when I have another go at it, which will probably be tomorrow.
I agree with your colour coding but it is difficult to see what is happening when you look at the Haynes manual.
Cheers and thanks for your help
I hadn't seen the old removed one so don't know how far the corrosion had reached -- whether the moisture (car had been stood underneath a tree in someone's back garden for many years) had travelled past the motor's terminal peg insulation into the motor itself or not.
<later> seems I've only got the p/n for LH door window winder motor as the leccy bought, so search 210338. The number's stamped on the casing. I paid £45 as p/x though
Current: '03 Strange Rover L322
In trim shop for total refurb: '73 Owen Sedanca 4.2L
Stalled in storage '61 Mark IX with 4.2L
I read somewhere the series one cars motors have three wires but although mine is a series one it was one of the last made and I suspect it had the series two motors which (according to the wiring diagram in the Haynes manual) has only two wires. I will bear your thoughts in mind and if the trial of connecting the passenger side wiring to the drivers side motor doesn't work I will try changing the motors over to prove if it makes any difference.
The series one motors are rectangular whilst the series two are round.
The operating switches are somehow matched to the motor so are not interchangeable. (You cannot fit the series two switch in place of the series one switch)
I have managed to repair my original motors (I found on removal of the passenger one the connection lug was very frail) in both cases one off the steel lugs coming out of the motor had rusted away, I drilled a small hole (2.5mm) touching the lug into the nylon block it comes from (not too deep) and screwed in self tapping screw, this making contact with the lug, soldered on the ent of the screw is a wire wrapped with insulation. I then checked the motor works both ways several times and filled the nylon cup with arialdrite.
My backstop was if it didn't work I would have to take the end plate off the motor and find a way of connecting a wire through it.
I looked around on the Internet and found new motors in the USA at £220 each plus delivery
So for now problem fixed.
Having put the window motor and regulator back in the door a quick test and it worked ok. I then demonstrated to the neighbours and yes it went down ok but would not go up again! Doh. There was no alternative but to strip it all off again only to find it would now still not work again. My pal had a look and we tweaked the self tap screw and lo it worked again. We surmised it must only just be making contact and when the power was applied the connection was so weak it failed after some usage. Obviously unreliable. So we cut back part of the motor and nylon block, where the contact had rusted, enough to clean up the contact and solder the wire on. - success, having put it all back in place a week ago and operating the window at least once a day it now works, so I am claiming success and putting on the door card (with a new hardboard backing) back in place.
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