My car is OK sometimes and on others it flashes up the Check tyre pressure message and then shows wheels in a random order to be at fault.
The tyre pressures are OK and are checked frequently and kept at 31 - 32 psi.
This appears to be more prevalent in cold wet weather.
My car, which I have had for a fortnight, is a May 2008 model with 150,000 miles on the clock but with a full service history.
Some of the theories state that the batteries in the valves will fail after 5 years so as mine is now approaching it's ninth birthday I guess that the valves may have already been replaced. Not an expense that I want to face so soon into my ownership.
Another theory is that the receivers are affected by rain, cold and dirt. I suspect that this may be the case but can't find any guide as to how to rectify this.
So many people ave reported that even taking their cars to a main dealer (not all Jaguars) has not cured the problem as it re-occurs a few weeks later.
I was fortunate enough to test drive the XF on 1st March 2008 as I was editor of the Northants branch monthly news letter and vowed that I would get one when I could afford it. Well, I now have my Dream Car and it really is a beauty! Sadly marred by the TPMS messages!
Can anyone Please help?
It comes as a shock to many new owners of pre-used cars, to find that they often get a run of electronic glitches. One might perhaps assume that a previous car owner might have sold their car on because a dealer has quoted a huge sum of money to fix the problems. The new owner then takes on the problems! Not unnaturally, the new owner then proceeds to attempt to fix those issues on an individual fault code type basis.
What is not generally known or understood is that modern cars are incredibly prone to battery voltage platform fluctuations. A decent new battery of a premium specification often cures many faults in one single stroke. An existing battery in the boot may still look brand new even after seven or eight years of action. What it looks like is unimportant. What is going on in side is another matter....
Many batteries showing a half discharged state (12.4V) are still sufficiently good to start the car. An owner then thinks he still has a good battery. That couldn`t be further from the truth. One chap went so far as to tell us that he had 12V at the terminals, so he still had a good battery! 12V indicates a fully discharged battery. 12.8V and a little above is more like what is needed. Expect to see at least 13.4V with the engine running or higher if the battery is at a low charge state.
There is no substitute for a battery voltage drop test. This loads the battery with a heavy current drain and an operator can see to what voltage a battery then drops. The length of recovery time to original voltage is noted. A fast recovery indicates a dodgy battery. Its all done by the experience of the operator and his interpretation of the results.
Batteries that are sulphated with buckled plates noted are unsuitable for further use. Batteries usually die from a combination of low terminal voltage and a lack of capacity. This combination of defects can and does affect vehicle performance and can cause the car to often be unable to complete its initial start up diagnostics. Odd warning messages, check lights and MIL lamp illuminations occur. It may well be that your tyre pressure monitoring system may be affected by the battery condition.
Before spending any money, I would get the battery voltage tested and replace it if condition diagnosis indicates that the battery is below par. A decent battery is a key component requirement necessary for a glitch free car. I advise starting from that point and establishing a known datum point.
Hope that helps,
I had the battery tested today and it is as good as it should be, so drawn a blank there.
The weather today is fine and dry, unlike yesterday, so everything is ok with fault only showing for the first couple of hundred yards when starting this morning. It certainly seems to be weather which is affecting it.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/car-drivi ... ystems.htm
Could it possibly be that tyres are deflating faster than you might have hoped for? Are the tyres holding their pressures well?
As the exclusive distributor for the European market AUTEC retails the tyre pressure monitoring sensor iM TPMS. The multi-application sensor is the first aftermarket sensor with valve in our product range which does not need to be programmed. It only has to be trained on the vehicle. Various sensor variants with different protocols cover nearly all vehicles in the market.
This is a 100% New pre-programmed aftermarket replacement for your Jaguar F-Type XE XF XJ XK X-Type original TPMS Sensor. The offer is for a SET Of 4 TPMS sensors and valve stems only. £135.55 including P&P from Germany
These were fitted by my local tyre shop for £40 and (although still showing the message, the wheels were shown in a regular pattern) the message cleared in a short drive of a two or three miles. So far the system has been working fine with no messages. Not exactly a cheap fix but worth it as I now have message free motoring!
Thanks to Mike for the helpful guidance.
I hope that this will be of help to others.
Recent experience with PTJS1 on his Range Rover, has taught us a bit about JLR products and software. We have a warm up issue with his car which will throw faults. Paul has been to see my old friend, Tom Lenthall at Finchampsted in an attempt to cure what appears to be a software issue. Tom told us that the software installation on Paul`s RR is known to be a bit "buggy". An update re-flash will take place soon in an attempt to rid the car of this irritating fault....that comes at Paul`s expense. It sticks in my craw that so many issues are software related on JLR models and that an owner often has to fork out to get an issue fixed which is manufacturer originated.
It is quite bizarre that you have had to spend £135 just to get what has already been paid for.
Odd that this should happen just after it passed the MOT four days ago.
Does anyone have an idea as to what component could be at fault?
I'm just wondering if there is a broken wire somewhere?
Who is online
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 1 guest