Xj6 s1 bootlid - repair or replace?

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Xj6 s1 bootlid - repair or replace?

Postby [email protected] » Mon Sep 17, 2018 10:12 am

Hi - I have recently acquired a 1969 (very early) series-1 XJ6. Overall the car is in good shape but the bootlid is in a bad state, with quite deep surface rust hiding under the numberplate and the reversing lights and couple of small holes where it's rusted right through. I know this is a fairly common problem and am wondering whether to continue de-rusting and repairing with resin etc. or whether I would be better to source a replacement lid from somewhere. Any views? (Also, the lid 'sits' wrong - it's too high on its brackets - any help on that also much appreciated!)

alec2824
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Re: Xj6 s1 bootlid - repair or replace?

Postby alec2824 » Fri Sep 21, 2018 11:23 pm

Over time the hinge brackets wear and may need to be bushed or replaced. However, you can attempt to adjust the hinged. Slacken the two fasteners holding the lid to the hinge, get a mate to push like merry hell the lid in the open direction - you may see a little movement and retighten fasteners. Repeat on the other hinge.

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Tintin
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Re: Xj6 s1 bootlid - repair or replace?

Postby Tintin » Sat Sep 22, 2018 11:08 am

It is sometimes a question of angular adjustment rather than brute force - I would try the former first.

Exactly where is your boot sitting "too high"? If this is on the edge below the rear window glass, tilting the lid on its brackets will likely do the trick. The height of the bottom (bumper) edge is governed by adjustment of the latch striker attached to the rear plinth.

Robbie
1996 4 litre XJS Celebration 2+2
Daimler Sovereign S1 4.2 1971

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Re: Xj6 s1 bootlid - repair or replace?

Postby [email protected] » Tue Oct 09, 2018 12:40 am

Many thanks for your suggestions - much appreciated. I have now repaired the rusted area behind the numberplate by reinforcing from the rear with fibreglass & resin, then filling / sanding / repainting. That all looks like new again, but the boot is still 'riding high' along the rear edge, under the window. I will try your hinge suggestions but was also thinking of unbolting the hinge-mounts inside the boot itself and using thick washers to drop them down by 3-4 mm. It would mean having 2 mounting bolts per hing rather than 4 (because the side-bolts would be out of alignment with their holes) but I figure it might work ok. Thank you again!

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Tintin
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Re: Xj6 s1 bootlid - repair or replace?

Postby Tintin » Tue Oct 09, 2018 3:33 pm

See below before and after photos of my boot lid.
WP_20180725_15_31_39_Pro.jpg
Before
WP_20180729_12_18_39_Pro.jpg
After
Looking at the bolts in the vertical part of the hinge bracket
WP_20180725_15_32_06_Pro.jpg
Hinge bolts
you need to loosen the nuts so that the boot lid pivots about the nearer bolt shank then re-tighten.

Good luck.

Robbie
1996 4 litre XJS Celebration 2+2
Daimler Sovereign S1 4.2 1971

[email protected]
Posts: 3
Joined: Mon Sep 17, 2018 9:55 am

Re: Xj6 s1 bootlid - repair or replace?

Postby [email protected] » Tue Oct 09, 2018 8:05 pm

<t>Thanks to all and TIntin in particular for your advice & pictures, which were helpful. My problem is now resolved and the boot lid on my XJ6 is sitting quite nicely flush all round, but it was quite a 'wrestle', so here are a few things which may be useful to someone else with an ill-fitting boot lid on an XJ (series 1 or 2) car. There are basically four different sets of bolts you can think about, and they do different things:<br/>
<br/>
(i) Main hinge attachment inside the boot cavity (4 bolts each side) - probably best left alone as these seem to have little or no adjustment potential and are meant to be fixed in place for all time, I think.<br/>
<br/>
(ii) Vertical-pointing bolts attaching lid to hinge (2 each side) . When loosened these will give a few millimetres of fore & after 'slide' to the lid, which is important for lining up the rear of the boot with the wings and for equalising the gap all around. However, I found these didn't do much for height alignment, even with shims put in between bracket and lid.<br/>
<br/>
(iii) Lateral-pointing bolts attaching the brackets to the hinges (2 bolts each side). When loosened, these provide a lot of up/down adjustment to the lid and I found they were critical in getting the rear end of boot lid to align flush with the bodywork. As Tintin says above, the weirdly counter-intuitive thing is that shifting the bootlid UP on these bolts (so that a gap opens up along the top edge of the brackets) actually makes the back of the boot lid sit LOWER when closed. I am not a PhD mathematician so I cannot explain the geometry of this, but it's true, and it was by opening up a gap of about 1/8" on both sides that I finally got the lid to sit at the right height along the back.<br/>
<br/>
(iv) Latch adjustment bolts (2 bolts). When loosened these bolts allow the catch to slide up/down and left/right, thus controlling the height of the shut lid at the numberplate end, and to some degree the left/right alignment. These bolts need to be very tight so that the catch doesn't shift down when the lid is slammed shut, and that tightening can strip the threads - see below...<br/>
<br/>
Watch-outs... (or: 'I learned two things the hard way'):<br/>
<br/>
FIRST WATCH OUT: Shutting the lid when it's set too far back means the rear edge of the lid grazes the bodywork and knocks off paint as it shuts, necessitating a paint-repair. Might be an idea to put masking tape right along the rear edge whilst you are adjusting the 'lie' of the boot lid, to shield it from such unintended violence!<br/>
<br/>
SECOND WATCH OUT: The threads on the latch adjustment bolts will strip very easily through repeated tightening, and I lost both bolts this way. Solution was to buy a small tap & die set (£10 at B&Q) and two M7 sized bolts from Halfords, then carefully re-cut the internal threads to M7 size and replace the original bolts.<br/>
<br/>
I hope this will all be useful to someone in the future!</t>


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