Rear Suspension Replace

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PeterDavisX300
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:17 am

Rear Suspension Replace

Postby PeterDavisX300 » Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:14 pm

Hello to all.

My X300 is high at the rear to have a full suspension replace. I'm going to put some pics up, I'll put a few explanations in as I go along, I'm not going to make 'a-Meal' of the work and bore anyone, I'd prefer if anyone was really interested to email me or ask through this thread for any pointers. It's not an easy job, there have been (and will continue to be I'm sure) difficulties mainly because the car is 23 years old and none of this work has been done before.
I dropped the rear axle out complete after separating the Prop-Shaft and the bolts from the body, all surprisingly rust-free. Naturally the rear brakes need to be disconnected, and the dreaded ABS sensors I disconnected too, ruining one in the process! Please bear in mind work may be slow, I live Very-North Scotland and it's starting to get frosty now, we've had a couple of well below minus temperatures, and all my work is outside with no protection. All-Good-Fun!

The pics have numbers, I'll try to say as they go-on.
DSCF5128.JPG
Exhaust Mountings, quite rusty and difficult to remove
DSCF5130.JPG
The axle removed. Just cleared the underside of the car.
DSCF5132.JPG
The Fuel Pipes, and old Filter. This area is very vulnerable for the pipes.
Last edited by PeterDavisX300 on Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:28 pm, edited 1 time in total.
1995 X300

PeterDavisX300
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:17 am

Re: Rear Suspension Replace

Postby PeterDavisX300 » Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:20 pm

Continued
DSCF5133.JPG
DSCF5134.JPG
These pics show the surface rust underside
DSCF5135.JPG
This is the Propshaft once disconnected. You would need to leave the bolts in on the shaft side. Put it back together like this. There's a 'spigot' protruding from the Diff' side.
1995 X300

PeterDavisX300
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:17 am

Re: Rear Suspension Replace

Postby PeterDavisX300 » Sat Nov 17, 2018 6:26 pm

Continued.
DSCF5137.JPG
New Fuel Filter, fuel-Lines treated, (they were solid) rust areas treated to waxoil, and all tested ready for replacement parts.
DSCF5138.JPG
DSCF5140.JPG
1995 X300

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A.J.P.
Posts: 317
Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:51 am
Location: Plymouth,Devon,U.K. J.E.C.Member

Re: Rear Suspension Replace

Postby A.J.P. » Sun Nov 18, 2018 12:43 pm

Hi Peter,
Thanks for sharing the photo's,very interesting.
When I took my rear axle out the exhaust mounting bracket proved to be the most difficult part to undo for me and there's two of them :( .
I found it very hard to get to and could then only turn the bolt maybe a 1/4 turn if that :( and then had to take the spanner off and re-position it for another 1/4 turn,took what seemed like an age but got there eventually,good job they were not corroded that much.
A job well worth doing though :) to help with rust prevention.
I know what you mean about working outside,that is where all my work takes place as well but I don't think it is as cold down here as where you are.I take my hat off to you,those spanners must be pretty cold to the touch.
Hope all goes well with the re-install.
Happy spannering.
Take care.
Andy :D
Enjoy The Luxury Which Is The X308
Jaguar XJ8 4.0 Sovereign LWB
Colour:Emerald Green (HGG code)
Year 2000
120000 Miles and Rising :D
J.E.C. Member

PeterDavisX300
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:17 am

Re: Rear Suspension Replace

Postby PeterDavisX300 » Tue Nov 27, 2018 10:45 pm

Hello All

I'm in the process of putting all the new or re-furbished components back on. I wonder if anyone knows 'For-Sure' the answer to my next question.

I was particularly careful when removing the long wishbone bolt, (that runs through the rear wishbone tie, then wishbone, then through the pendulum bracket) then washer and nut on the end. The bolt, (which is flanged) came out with no washer on the bolt end to the rear of the wishbone-tie, is that correct? So I noted that the steel/nylon washers (that fit together) are either side of the wishbone, with the nylon side bearing onto the wishbone surface. Then the washer and nut fit on the front of the bolt, and are torqued to 85-115Nm. When all this is fully tightened, the wishbone moves nice and smoothly up and down in a 'suspension-movement' but, the bolt moves with the wishbone, rather than as I would have expected, the wishbone to move up and down without the bolt 'twisting' with it's movement. Everything is nice and tight, the wishbone has absolutely NO sideways movement or play, and the steel/nylon washers are fully captive. Does anyone know if this is the correct movement?? I don't recall ANY other washers coming off this bolt, and being particular about how they were fitted. I've looked at as many drawings and parts lists as I can, but can't see anything glaringly obvious that's saying I've got something wrong.

Please help if you can

Thanks

Peter
1995 X300

PeterDavisX300
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:17 am

Re: Rear Suspension Replace

Postby PeterDavisX300 » Sun Dec 09, 2018 5:56 pm

A short up-date. Working on the axle parts for Five hours today, in zero-temperature. The couple of pics below tell the whole story really, the rear axle has only to have the new springs to be put on over the 'not-so-old' shocks, and to be lifted into place and attached. The difficulty will be lining-up the spigot of the diff' to the propshaft, whilst lining-up the turrets of the springs........oh-joy. Don't underestimate how heavy this 'built-up' component is!
DSCF5151.JPG
DSCF5153.JPG
1995 X300

PeterDavisX300
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:17 am

Re: Rear Suspension Replace

Postby PeterDavisX300 » Mon Feb 11, 2019 7:32 pm

Hello again to those interested.
Well here we are, Two months later, and yesterday still in freezing temperatures and after Five hours non-stop, the rear-axle is finally in place. Hoorah!
You can see by the couple of pics that the 'solid' component parts have deteriorated with surface rust, the discs for example have only done about 2k miles. All bushes are new though, and the 'A'-Frame, and Pendulum, and Wishbone-Tie all have been refurbed. Also the 'Jurid' joint between the Prop-Shaft and the Diff' has been replaced, this was in particularly poor condition. I also renewed all the 'important' bolts that keep the suspension in place.
The first Two pics are just of the rear-end back in place. The following pics are very much of interest to those that may tackle this job in the future. My X300 is a 3.2, registered in May 1995, but the car was built quite a bit earlier than this. I think it must have had an early 'A'-Frame, perhaps off an XJ40, because the 'A'-Frame I've fitted, although the same dimensions, is definitely subtly different, and needs different bolts. As one example, the older 'A'-Frame has 'recessed' lower bolts upwards for the Diff' mountings, the 'A'-Frame I replaced it with has the bolts upwards protruding below the surface, (much easier to extract) (If in doubt, get XJ8 bolts) Now the first picture shows the 'A'-Frame mounting bracket, (one on each side) (And the thing that caused all sorts of problems when the car was new because it allowed stones to get trapped, and cause a very loud 'clunking' sound from the rear suspension. This was cured by a 'Hole' being machined in later brackets, of which I have fitted) Now back the the bracket, in the picture you see the Two bolts the same. Notice they are the 'Old' bolts! This is because Jaguars 'replacement bolt (Yes, I splashed-out on all Jaguar replacement parts) is the WRONG thread! (You can see by the pic, the two bolts the same size are rusty compared to the new bolt that goes through the doughnut, also you'll notice that the doughnut bolt has a rusty washer underneath, this is also the OLD washer because the Jaguar replacement washer is as thin as 'rice-paper' compared to the old one) In the other pics you can see the part number of the wrong-threaded bolt................if that isn't bad enough, this bolt is listed as the bolt that is on the outside of the bracket that is a size down! So not only have Jaguar got the part-number mixed-up, but the blasted larger bolt is the wrong thread! Look at the first bit of thread on the new bolt that I tried to put into the 'captive-hole' it's clearly damaged. These bolts are expensive at about £2 each plus VAT, and you must buy Five. If you look at the Jaguar part-number for the outside bolt it says, SH112301M. In FACT SH112301M is the inner Two bolts in the pic, that are the larger, and are the WRONG thread. And SH110201MJ (that is sold as the Larger bolt) is in FACT the Smaller bolt on the outside. (I didn't get the packets mixed-up, they were sealed) I checked the threads with a 'thread-gauge' and my bolts on an early X300 are imperial threads! WELL-WORTH-A-NOTE-I-THINK. You can see by the last pic, that comparing the bolts, the two Old bolts are a size smaller than the One larger bolt, and note the larger bolt is still new. Again note the damage to the first couple of threads on the bolt. (initially I thought it was stiff because of the 'thread-lock' on the bolt) I was lucky, I'm an Engineer, and could feel the bolt wasn't just going in very well. However, I know for a fact that some people may have used and 'air-compressed' impact driver to whack these bolts in place, and I fully believe that the bolt would have gone all the way in under those circumstances, surely weakening the mounting. Enjoy the pics, sorry about the long-post. For the last two pics I shall need to reply to the post.
DSCF5181.JPG
DSCF5182.JPG
DSCF5176.JPG
1995 X300

PeterDavisX300
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:17 am

Re: Rear Suspension Replace

Postby PeterDavisX300 » Mon Feb 11, 2019 7:33 pm

Last Two bolt pics.
DSCF5177.JPG
DSCF5180.JPG
1995 X300

PeterDavisX300
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:17 am

Re: Rear Suspension Replace

Postby PeterDavisX300 » Mon Feb 11, 2019 7:40 pm

If you click on the pic, you can see the 'bolt' damage much more clearly. The bolt that is damaged, is the one that is the wrong thread, and the part-number it is shown beside is the sealed packet that it was in when I got it, that part number is for the smaller bolt in the second pic that you can see matches the old bolt.
1995 X300

User avatar
A.J.P.
Posts: 317
Joined: Wed Mar 15, 2017 9:51 am
Location: Plymouth,Devon,U.K. J.E.C.Member

Re: Rear Suspension Replace

Postby A.J.P. » Tue Feb 12, 2019 6:18 pm

Hi Peter,
Good info and photo's.
Glad you got everything back onto the car o k.
Regarding the bolt issue,just goes to show you can't take anything for granted.
Thanks for sharing.
Take care.
Andy :)
Enjoy The Luxury Which Is The X308
Jaguar XJ8 4.0 Sovereign LWB
Colour:Emerald Green (HGG code)
Year 2000
120000 Miles and Rising :D
J.E.C. Member

PeterDavisX300
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:17 am

Re: Rear Suspension Replace

Postby PeterDavisX300 » Tue Feb 12, 2019 7:36 pm

Today was very much milder at about 12 degrees C. So out and underneath the car to spray waxoyl the whole of the rear-end. The wind was about 30 knots, so I got a few blasts in the face, and a few swear-word with stuff blowing-away. Handbrake all hitched-up and tested, the rear-brakes now back in place with an experimental 'crack' of the 'new-ish' bleed-nipples. Next job is the ABS. I'll need to support the front of the car, and whip the wheels off, and remove the ABS pump with the pump-ECU underneath. This means of course disconnecting the brake-lines from the pump. I'll then attach my 'repaired' (by me) ECU, and replace the pump-unit attaching the brake-lines. Bleed the brakes, and then, Robert is indeed your Auntie! Once the car is back on 'all-fours' I'll need to scrape and waxoyl all the jacking-points, they've taken a lot of abuse in recent months. Then.............MOT. My intention is to 'repair' the replaced ABS 'Pump-ECU' and hopefully take pictures of the process so's others can do the job if they're confident when their 1095 code appears.
1995 X300

PeterDavisX300
Posts: 226
Joined: Wed Aug 19, 2015 10:17 am

Re: Rear Suspension Replace

Postby PeterDavisX300 » Thu Feb 14, 2019 7:08 pm

Just an Update. Whilst the temperature is still mild at 10C I decided to go out this morning and finish the job. Car onto Four Axle-Stands, ans removed the ABS-Pump. Unscrewed the ABS-ECU from the bottom, replaced it with my repaired ECU, and re-installed the Pump and ECU into position. (To stop brake fluid spilling out of the individual pipes to the pump, I just push-fit a small diameter rubber hose over the flared end of the pipe, and tie-wrap each end) A couple of the lower pipes were 'tricky' to re-engage in to their position on the pump, but patience gets reward. Time to bleed the brakes. For this I use an old-fashioned 'Gunsons-Easy-Bleed'. Bleed the brakes closest-to-furthest, so, NSF / OSF / NSR / OSR. Some disagree with this looking for complications, I spent time with a Jaguar Dealer in Austin-Texas (Mostly a transmission specialist) and he persuaded me this is the best way for the X300. Because the pump is some distance from any of the caliper bleed nipples, it takes longer than one thinks for the bubbles to get to the calipers, again patience gets rewards. Solid-pedal. Job done. Next job was greasing-up the rear drive-shafts, car into neutral, and move the shafts so you can see the nipples each side. One for each U/J. Put the car back on its Four wheels, (first time in many months) and up the road for a test................All fine, ABS light out, nice and firm rear. Braking still a bit to go, needs more miles to get all the muck off the discs.
All I have to do now is scrape the surface rust away from the jacking-points, and put some protection on them, then down to my mates garage for the MOT..............Fingers-Crossed.
If anyone want more info on this, then just ask. There are many other details and 'tricky' little bits that would take too long to write-up here, but I welcome helping if I can.
Full Front Suspension Replace, later this year! I wonder if I'll be satisfied then?

I just thought I'd add a little. My car is far from being ever entered in any kind of show. I'm doing about Six thousand miles in it every year, and it's 'used-and-revved-hard'. I make sure that every time I take it out and once it's fully-warmed-up it's revved to the red-line in the first couple of gears, this mainly to assure myself the car is still performing as it should. Last June I was in a hurry to get home and sat on the M6 going North between Carlisle and Glasgow (about 90 miles) at more than 100 mph all the way, even at Glasgow I've got Three and a Half hours driving North before I get home! My lovely Jaguar is a 'patchwork' of different shades of paint............but there is absolutely no rust topside or underneath. My very close friend and neighbour Steve, (also a Jaguar enthusiast) is a fantastic welder of car-bodies, and very particular about metal-finish, 'letting-in' welded patches of panels with virtually no filler. He has done both rear arches, (I put a lot of pictures on here and in the magazine about this) and I've fitted Two second-hand front wings which both have no rust in or out. I have considered doing, or perhaps getting someone to full re-spray, but the car works perfectly as is. For me, the car is for driving, having said that, I must have everything working properly on the car as if it came from the factory, which on mine it does..............except the blasted OSR door puddle-light, but I have a spare catch to fit.
Enjoy the read.
Peter
1995 X300


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